We received a stamp for our Camino passport at our hotel, then loaded our baggage into the van and headed to our starting point for the day at Rabanal del Camino, at the 243.8 km marker. We walked to Foncebón at 238.5, made a rest stop and had our passports stamped again and went on to have lunch at the Cruz de Ferro at 236 km where pilgrims for centuries have left tokens of the burdens they want to leave behind. I added a black obsidian stone that is supposed to absorb toxic patterns, clear emotional language and help people confront inner truths. I am facing the reality of my aging body and living within my limits while trying to be of some help to others. Our guide Ana provided us a delicious picnic lunch. Along the way we passed through many small villages and rural scenes with ancient chapels and hermitages and humble albergues. We rode through Molinaseca and Ponferrada to our accommodation for the night, Hotel Alfonso IX in Sarria. Cesar taught us about the local flora and fauna, and Ana taught us about the history of the Camino. We received two stamps along the way at the tavern in Monte Irago and the Godivah albergue in Ponferrada. The day was very hot, in the high 90’s, and the elevation was nearly 1500 meters, (4,900 feet), the highest on the Camino Francés. The terrain was rocky and quite steep in places. I had an abnormal heart rate alert during the first segment of the climb and decided to ride in the van to the next segment skipping the steepest part of the climb. My hips and knees are not causing any trouble, but I am finding it hard to breathe in the thin air. We all made it to the end without injury but pre-existing conditions are making the journey a challenge for several in our group. From the Iron Cross we travelled on to O Cabreiro, the village with round Celtic style thatch roofed houses and a church where the miracle of the bread and wine occurred. Near the hamlet where the thatch roof cottages, a bagpiper played a highland tune to welcome us. We traveled for an hour or two through the Galician mountains to where we will stay for two nights. Our group gathered to hear the for plan the next day’s trek, and enjoyed another delicious meal and convivencia. Interesting fact: King Alfonso IX lived in Sarria, and died on the the Camino of a gastrointestinal illness at the age of 59. Aging gracefully means changing our dietary habits to suit our bodies needs. The king reminds us of that. I skipped the heavy entree and had two vegan appetizers instead. At the end of the day we walked 6.9 miles, climbed 98 flights and descended 19. All of us are hoping more than anything for a good nights sleep.
