We left the manor house at 7:30 and began our Camino where we left off in Melide. Melide is a larger town than the hamlets we have been passing through on most of our journey. It is the place where the French Route and the Primitive Route from Orvedo come together. It has a small historic quarter and a 14th century Cruceiro next to the chapel of San Roque. San Pedro Church and Sancti Spiritus Convent were scaffolded and closed for renovations, but we stepped inside the museum of the land of Melide, once part of the 14th century pilgrim’s hospice. A contemporary clinic next door continues to offer healthcare services to pilgrims. We find many small pharmacies along the way with bandages, medications, salves, electrolyte packets, sunscreens and all manner of things useful for staying well and repairing injuries along the way. The Camino even in the best of circumstances is an arduous journey. The terrain, the weather, and the sheer length of the road we travel each day makes us keenly aware of our weaknesses and vulnerabilities as we strive to reach the checkpoints each day. My arthritis, heart rate spikes, and toe blisters of the first few days seem to have resolved, but a new problem appeared this morning. A red rash is spreading over my legs and arms and some allergic reaction is causing my nose to run. At least I hope it’s an allergy. Our journey today took us through woodlands, farms and gently rolling terrain over creeks with medieval stone bridges. We stopped for a good long while at the Romanesque church of Santa Maria of Melide where a local volunteer gave us a lengthy explanation of the fresco behind the altar. Most of our group moved quickly ahead while Mary, Ana, Aliya and I ambled along through the woodlands up and down the path in cool sunny weather to Parabispo, Boente, and Casteñeda. We met up with Mary’s husband Bob for the final ascent to Ribadiso da Baixo and the grassy picnic area where we stopped for lunch. From there it was all uphill to Arzua where we met the van and the rest of our group for some refreshments before returning home to the manor and dinner in town at 8:00. I walked 9.8 miles, climbed 95 flights and descended 126. My heart rate remained below 140 throughout the day, but my stress level is still high due to inadequate restful moments. I was so grateful for the long siesta before dinner at Pazo Santa Maria! Tomorrow we are expecting rain. For me this is good news because of the sun rash I have to keep covered for a few days.
